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Inquiry on Ethics and restrictions for bolting and first ascents

Hi there,

we are planning a trip to Mallorca and intend to bring the bolting gear.  During previous visits we spied some projects in Gorg Blau and Es Queixal, but are open for more. Before drilling any hole I'd like to inquire on the bolting ethics on the island:

- Is it generally advisable / necessary / possible to contact the landowner when adding routes to established crags? What about completely new areas?

- Are there any general restrictions / no-nos where not to do any first ascents?

- Are there any "guardians" or local climbers to special areas that should be contacted in order not to piss them off?

- Is there an agreed standard on how sport / multipitch routes should preferrably be equipped?

- (Where) can anchors, glue-ins etc. be bought on the island?

Any advice is appreciated. Feel free to reply in Spanish, I can figure it out.

Cheerio,

Melwin 

Ethics Bolting

Hello, I am carlos and write to you from Foracorda.

For us it is very nice that you want to open new routes, all those more routes more we will be able to climb!
Some things:
Attention, in Mallorca almost everything is private!.

If you equip in a sector with routes, the ethics of the sector respect (not artificial holes).
 

Not to touch already equipped routes and to respect the space between routes.

Since you will see they are international procedure.

If you want more information put in touch with us.

Best Regards and good climbs!!!!!

Carlos

Hi Melwin, we are a group of

Hi Melwin, we are a group of climbers living on Mallorca. Last year we bolted some new climbing routes and started to develop new climbing areas. We are still working on it and plans are made - but whats missing is a drilling machine... So if you are interested feel free to contact us (jwaskowiak@gmx.de). There`s still material left (anchors + chains) and you can buy all the needed stuff at FORACORDA-shop here on the island. If you are on Mallorca ask at FORACORDA-shop because of all your other questions - i think they will help you. Best regards, Juergen

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